Hyundai Santa Fe DRL Installation
(Daytime Running Lights)

Installer: twospirits, Roland
Testers: twospirits, Roland
Part supplier: GNU Industries, Sunrise Florida
Author, Images: twospirits, nsdy2K
Technical assistant: southpawboston

Introduction / History

The Hyundai Santa Fe's sold throughout Europe as well as in Canada come with Daylight Running Lights. These lights greatly improve the visibility of a vehicle when a vehicle is viewed from the front in daylight by oncoming drivers and reduce your chances of being in an accident compared to if you did not have them. Studies have shown that driving with headlights during daylight hours will reduce your chances of being involved in an accident. Numerous studies have been conducted in the US, Canada, England etc and have shown a positive reduction in daytime accidents by up to 38%. In addition the U.S. Insurance Institute for Highway Safety also conducted it owns study which indicates a 20% reduction in daytime accidents. Unfortunately the US models do not come with the DRL unit installed. It is up to the owner to obtain an aftermarket module that will give the Santa Fe this extra safety enhancement. Its a safety enhancement because DRLs can cut your accident rate by 10-30% in the first year of installation. In addition most automobile insurance companies will re-evaluate your insurance premiums when DRLs are installed on your vehicle. In 99% of cases the insurance company will automatically give you a premium discount. That alone offsets the cost of the DRL unit. Once you complete the modification/installation you can send a copy of your sales receipt to the your insurance company and get the DRL discount.  

This modification therefore tackles this problem by guiding you in installing an aftermarket Daylight Running Light module.

Special thanks go out to SFF/ElantraGT Club member southpawboston which without his expertise this mod/install would not have been possible, as well as to Roland/
nsdy2K for additional photos and notes in Appendix B.


Please Read the disclaimer before proceeding

Difficulty level / scale: On a scale of 1 - 10

Easy   Difficult
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Tools and materials needed:

The DRL module.
This unit was bought from GNU Industries of Sunrise Florida. It retails for $19.99 USD.

The box it came in.

 Width of unit  Height of unit

Depth of Unit

Rear of unit with instructions


2 3/4"
3 1/4"
1 1/4


Main items 
GNU Daylight Running light module DRL-100 (see above)
Philips screwdriver
10mm Socket wrench with extension
2 Blue Butt Connector
Electrical tape

Isopropyl Alcohol 
4-6" of 18 gauge electrical wire (any color)
Clean Rag
1 or 2 nylon snap ties
Heavy duty double sided tape
1 10 amp "Add a fuse" from any Auto parts store

Time to install item:

Total time for mod: 30-90 min  

Necessary pre-mod/install steps.

Before any modification / installation, write down any pre-set radio stations you have set your radio too.
Then disconnect the battery.

Removing the necessary panel covers.

  Place the drivers side seat as far back as possible.
Raise the steering wheel to it up most position.
Remove the 3 screws from the left lower crash pad panel.

Gently but firmly unclip the crash pad panel by pulling it towards you.
Be careful as the Rheostat M11 switch will still be connected to the Rheostat and you will need to unplug it during the panel removal.

    Remove the 4 screws from the underside of the steering column cover.
    The steering column cover has a small enclosed cover that you need to pry open either by using a flathead screwdriver or a door trim tool or any tool that you find that will not scratch the cover.
    The small enclosed cover shown removed with the rubber attachment.
    With the enclosed cover removed you can insert your fingers to separate the upper and lower steering wheel cover.
    Gently but firmly grasp the lower cover and pull downward and the covers will separate.
    With the steering wheel covers removed you will see and have access to the multifunction switch connectors M20-1, M20-2 and M20-3.
    Detach the M20-2 connector so it hangs. Unwrap the electrical tape and take out the wires from the protective plastic hose.
    The Passenger fuse box connectors are located behind the lower metal crossbar. Depending on the connector you plan on using depends on you removing this cross bar. I would suggest to remove it anyway for better access. To remove the lower metal cross bar you need to remove the 5 bolts shown in the picture with a 10mm socket. For the two inner bolts you will need to use a socket extender.

Determining which connector to use depending on the model you have.

  In a real world the best connector to hook up the DRL module would be to the I/P-A connector at Pin #2 (the red wire). But due to the placement of the Passenger Compartment Junction Box, (see picture left) it will be next to impossible to get to this connector. Therefore I suggest hooking up the DRL module to the connector I/P-D which is higher and a bit to the right (see diagram) and easier to unclip than any of the other ones.  Tester Roland/nsdy2K actually did connect the wires to I/P-A (see Appendix B below for instructions and photos.)

Now using this connector you have the option of hooking the DRl to any one of the following pins/wires from Connector I/P-D.


B black L Blue R Red
Br brown Lg Light Green T Tan
G green O Orange W White
Gr gray P Pink Y Yellow


 (Click on image to open up in full size)  Pin #  Amp  Leads To  Wire Color
 # 01  20A  Cigarette lighter & power outlet Yellow
 # 02  10A  Audio, Power outside mirror Yellow
 # 03  15A  Digital clock, rear power outlet Brown/Black, Yellow
 # 04  10A  Cruise control Red/Black
 # 05  10A  Head lamp relay - (internal)
 # 06  15A  Seat warmer Red/Orange, Red
 # 07  10A  Rear wiper motor control Red
 # 08  10A  Rear window defogger, power outside mirror Red
 # 09  10A  A/C control, sunroof relay, electrical chrome mirror White, Red/Black
 # 10  10A  (Not Used)  
 # 11  10A  Instrument cluster, room lamp, door lamp Red, Red/Orange, Green
 # 12  10A  ETACS control module, audio, digital clock, siren Brown, Red
 # 13  20A  AMP speakers Red
 # 14  10A  Stop lamp switch, data link connector, multipurpose check connector Green, Red
 # 15  10A  Hazard lamp Red
 # 16  25A  Rear wiper motor control, power seat Red
 # 17  20A  Sunroof relay Green
 # 18  30A  Rear window defogger Red
 # 19  10A  Pre-excitation resistor, instrument cluster, ETACS control module Orange
 # 20  15A  SRS control module Red/Black
 # 21  10A  ECM (V6), PCS (I4 with A/T), ECM (I4 with M/T) Red
 # 22  10A  Instrument cluster (Air Bag IND) Blue/Orange
 # 23  10A  G-Sensor, ABS control module, air bleeding connector Blue/Orange, Red/Orange
 # 24  10A  Turn Signal lamp Red/Orange
 # 25  10A  Back up lamps, vehicle speed sensor, TCM Red/Orange
 # 26  20A  Door lock//unlock relay (internal)
 # 27  10A  Turn signal lamp, License lamp, Tail & Parking lamp (LH) Brown/Orange, Yellow, Pink
 # 28  10A  Fog lamp relay, switch illumination, Tail & Parking lamp (RH) Pink.Black, Yellow,
 # 29   -  (Not Used)  
 # 30  10A  Radiator fan relay, condenser fan relay Green
 # 31  20A  Front wiper motor, wiper relay, washer motor Red
Note: Once you unclip this connector you will see the available wires leading off of it. I suggest hooking up the DRL to Pin # 2 (white wire that leads to the Electronic Chrome Mirror). Some models have the Electrical Chrome mirror and or sunroof, if yours does not, then I suggest hooking up the DRL to Pin # 14 (yellow wire) that leads to the Vanity cabin lamps.
  This diagram shows the M20-2 and I/P-D connector and their associated pin placement.

Familiarizing yourself with the The Daylight Running Module (DRL).

The DRL module is quite small with instructions on the back of the unit. While these instructions may be used generically for other vehicles they are NOT to be used for the Santa Fe.
The instructions shown on the back of the unit are as follows....
Unit Wire connects to      
Red wire = Ignition (+) 12V switched power
Black wire = Chassis ground
Grey wire = Input Positive (+ ) or Negative (-)
White wire = To headlights switch
As mentioned, with these instructions the unit will not work with the Santa Fe. Therefore with assistance from fellow electronic guru southpawboston, he was able to come up with the right connection as follows...
Unit Wire connects to      
Red wire = Passenger fuse box connector I/P-D Pin 2 red wire or Pin # 14 (depending on model)
Black wire = Chassis ground
Grey wire = Chassis ground
White wire = Multifunction control M20-2 Pin 10 Yellow wire (low beam) or Pin 2 Blue wire (high beam)

Connecting the Daylight Running Module (DRL).

    Connect the DRL white wire to the M20-2 Connector using one blue butt connector (or solder it or any connector you prefer).
   To connect to the low beam lamps. To connect to the high beam lamps.
  Connect the DRL white wire to the M20-2 connectors yellow wire. Connect the DRL white wire to the M20-2 connectors blue wire.

Note: If connecting to the high beams please see Appendix A below for special notations.

    I added one 10 amp "Add a fuse"  which I obtained from AutoZone to the white wire. This will give more protection in the event of any additional load being sent to the module.
    Connect the DRL red wire to the I/P-D connector using one blue butt connector (or solder it or any connector you prefer).
Connect according to your models factory installed item.
  models with Chrome mirror.  models without chrome mirror
  Connect the DRL red wire to the I/P-D connector white wire (pin # 2) Connect the DRL red wire to the I/P-D connector yellow wire (Pin # 14).
The red wire already has a fuse to it, but as mentioned above I added an additional one to the white wire for added protection. 
  Connect the DRL grey and black wire to any chassis grounding point.
I chose to connect it to the inner most bolt where the metal crossbar gets attached too.



Testing the DRL.

At this point, reattached the battery and test the DRL setup by having the vehicle turned on and see if the lights come on and the led on the module is on as well. If it does, it works. If it does not, recheck the connections.

  You can test the lights by toggling between the DRL and standard lights by unclipping the module. You should be able to see a light intensity difference if the lights are towards a dark wall such a garage wall or building.



Securing the DRL module.

    At this point, knowing that the DRL works, you can wrap up the project by securing the loose wires by wrapping them up in electrical tape as shown. This is the M20-2 Connector plugged back in.

Securing the DRL module.

    Placement and securing the DRL module is a bit tricky since the most logical place would be in the space above the passenger fuse box.

But placing it here will be a problem because it gets in the way of the rheostat once the lower crash pad is put back in place.

    Therefore I place the DRL unit in the nook to the left of the lower crash pad. Unfortunately the DRL red wire is not long enough, so you will need to cut it in half and add about 4-6 inches of additional wire to it so it can stretch far enough to be placed within the nook. Clean the metal inside the nook with a clean rag dabbed with alcohol. Add double sided tape to the module.  
    Place the DRL in the nook, and against the metal. If need be, hold it down with a nylon snap tie in the event the tape does not hold.



Final wrap up.

At this point, knowing that the DRL works, and is secured, you can wrap up the project by putting back the lower crash pad and steering wheel covers in reverse order as mentioned above in the section "Removing the necessary Panel Covers". Re-connect the battery and reset your radio setting.

Appendix A.

If you plan on connecting the DRL modules using the high beam lamps you need to know that the high beam indicator in the instrument panel cluster will be on at a dim level. To overcome this you will need to isolate it with a blocking diode by hooking up the DRL white wire to EM03 pin # 17 (which is downstream of the multifunction switch). Then insert the diode inline between joint connector M04 pin 13 and EM03 pin # 17. This will isolate the dash indicator from the DRL module but allow the indicator to work normally when you switch on the high beams.

Appendix B (using the I/P-A connector instead of I/P-D).

The following guide was performed and provided by Roland / nsdy2K.


I study your DRL 4-wires descriptions and followed the wiring diagram on Appendix A. I concluded for safety measure that the +12V power source must come from I/P-A pin#2 or somewhere similar which can provide capable current draw in case the DRL module need to sustain it. Also since the SF headlights are negatively sourced, the grounding wires (gray & black) of the DRL are extremely important because they will be handling the full current load for the daytime headlights.  
In summary I ran separate wires for each connection and terminated them with a quick disconnects. All the wires pulled to one location where the DRL will be installed.

I used 18 AWG and splicing connector on connector M20-2 Pin# 10 (yel). Tie-wrap the line to existing harness and run neatly underneath to left side of dash.

  Crimp (2) 16 AWG wires to 16-14 AWG ring terminal (eyelet connector). This will be used as the grounds for the DRL on the headlights.


    This ring terminal will be bolted to the cross-bar using the existing hole and bolt.

I was able to access the connector I/P-A after unclipping the top connectors and pushing the harness up slightly. You need to press the side lock in and hold it flush to the side of the connector and pull it straight out. There is not a lot of play in the lock, don¨t press too hard otherwise it will bend the tab and clip more on the lip. Just hold it in firmly.

You can see the 16 AWG yellow lead from the splice on connector I/P-A Pin# 2 (red).


  I brought all the wires over to the left side.
  Terminated them with quick disconnects as shown.

Again I used 16 AWG for all grounds & for +12V hot source. Ran 18 AWG for the HL trigger lead.
  I made a lable and taped it to the DRL front cover.

DRL – 100 wiring for SF
Ign (+) 12V   = Red to Yellow (IP-A Pin 2)
Chassis grnd = Blk to White (Grnd)
Input (+) or (-) = Grey to White (Grnd)
HdLight switch = White to Red (M20-2 Pin 10)

I added quick disconnects (female) to each ends of the power cable from the DRL.

  Before putting the panel back, I tested the DRL. I started the car and waited 5-6 seconds for the module to activate; the DRL led came on after 5-6 seconds delay. The DRL is designed to delay 5-6 seconds for normal ignition start. The headlight is designed to run at reduced-intensity (I don¨t know the exact percentage, but others DRL advertised at 60%).  
  Ties wrap the DRL to the frame and retest it.
  After tests, I plugged the rheostat connector to the panel and screw the panel back. Tested again and the dash light is bright and the DRL is working properly. 

This site was last updated 02/08/06